Campeche

My original itinerary had us in Merida for a second day and then driving six hours to the jungle. But at some point pre-covid I was speaking to my boss and his wife, who traveled through the Yucatan peninsula a few years back, and asked for their favorite place. “Oh, Campeche!” they agreed, and in my memory they said this with dreamy sighs while gazing into the distance. I may be remembering that a bit more dramatically than it actually occurred, but regardless it made an impression on me. Later on, when reevaluating our itinerary mid-covid I took the opportunity to cut down on city stays and decided to break up our long journey to the jungle with a night in Campeche. So, here we are…

Reading about this city Zach and I had a hard time picturing what to expect, and every tout that made friends with us in Merida described it as quiet and slow. The reality of Campeche took us by surprise in the best way possible. It isn’t sleepy like Celestun, but also isn’t bustling like Merida. It definitely has a touristy feel, but with mostly Mexican tourists and very few Americans and Europeans (that we have noticed, at least). The old center of the city is a walled bastion (built as a protection against pirates) alongside the gulf of Mexico. Inside the walls is a grid of gorgeous multicolored streets in pastel hues, and chock full of restaurants and bars and cathedrals. Calle 59 is the central pedestrian-only street decorated with lights and ribbons strung overhead between buildings. It is a photographer’s paradise, and it is nearly impossible to make it half a block without Zach stepping into traffic multiple times to get the perfect shot.

After a fun but mediocre lunch, the girls were tired and retreated to our hotel to rest. I had warned the family that of all the places I’d booked for this trip, this hotel felt like the biggest risk. It ticked the boxes (central location, pool, free parking, good reviews) but the reviews were sparse and only good, not glowing, and it seemed like it may be a bit sterile and lacking in character. But it is wonderful! It is in a huge old building that feels like monastery, with a beautiful courtyard, giant room, friendly staff, sparkling pool, and tons of character. All for only $70/night! A huge win. So the girls were happy to rest up in the room while Zach and I explored the city during the heat of midday.

Virgin strawberry daiquiri rimmed with blue sugar

Suddenly the hot afternoon turned dark as storm clouds rolled in, and Zach and I took refuge in a beautiful cathedral while rain poured outside. We were grateful for the dry sanctuary, and quietly admired the intricate altar covered with cascades of fresh flowers and the meditation garden. As we waited and waited for the rain to ebb, we became a bit less respectful…we whispered about how beautiful the artist painted the light on the crown and in the depths of hell in one painting, and came up with captions for the angels. “Oh my, it does look fiery below. But I guess you should have made better decisions when you had the chance!” “And, while you’re down there, can you heat up this burrito for me?” “Actually, here, take this dove and give it a roast, will you? I’m starving!”

When the rain let us we explored the tiny pirate museum in the old city walls with Diane (while Melina was catching up on alone time), and then splashed around in the pool in the rain. Pool time has become a daily ritual on this trip.

Diane shows the pirates who’s boss

Later in the evening D walked with us down to the malecon. It was still drizzling, but we wanted to see the ocean up close. As we admired the imposing angel statue (it gave us His Dark Materials vibes) we heard a mewing from behind us on the malecon. We tried to place the sound (a squeaky bicycle? A cat bird?) and as it got closer realized it was coming from a couple that was walking towards us. “Oh,” I said, “it sounds like they are carrying a cat but it must be a baby.” “Um, no,” said Zach, “they are carrying a cat.” And he was right. We could barely contain our hysterics as we watched the middle aged couple carry their CAT to the edge of the ocean IN THE RAIN, and proceed to pose for pictures with it at different points on the ledge in front of the ocean! Every 15 seconds or so the cat would let out a miserable “mrroww!” to signal what could only have been its intense unhappiness. Zach finally got a sneaky picture when they put the cat down and attempted to walk him on his leash (he was not having it). We just could not figure out what the story of this scene could be. Zach had the best (if most disturbing) guess: “Every day, they come here and throw the cat into the ocean, and every morning it comes back!” Of course, then I became terrified I would have to jump into the ocean to save the cat, but of course the cat stayed ashore. After the wacky trio were long gone we still couldn’t stop singing, “na na na na I keep on hoping, cats by the ocean!”

Since we had a late lunch we were just not hungry for dinner, so instead in the late evening we headed to a chocolate restaurant. After all, the Mayans did call chocolate “the drink of the gods,” so it was only appropriate to honor them with chocolate frappes, hot chocolate, and chocolate desserts! We have been too hot to try any local chocolates until now, but the rain cooled us down enough that we felt the need to make up for lost time. It was a very good decision. I’m pretty sure I get just as heady from a rich chocolate cake as I do from a glass of wine, so it was the perfect nightcap.

Of all the towns we’ve visited so far on this trip, Campeche has been my favorite. It seems like it would be a perfect place to live for a few months, getting to know the best taquerias and cafes and watch for pirates from the ramparts. I can already see my reaction when I’m asked about our favorite places in Mexico. It involves a far off look in my eyes and a dreamy sigh, complete with, “Oh, Campeche!”