We started the day excited for sunshine and for the fact that we wouldn’t have to pack our bags and jump on a train or bus. Our B&B didn’t serve breakfast until 9am and initially we were very worried as our girls are used to eating by 8am at the latest. To our surprise they managed to entertain themselves in their room semi-quietly for over two hours and we were in the formal dining room at 9 on the dot. Two large tables were set and we sat at one and then watched every other couple walk in, look our way, and make a beeline for the other table. They were packed in over there and I honestly felt bad for that last couple that got up late and had to sit with us as their punishment. Although I can’t blame them all for avoiding us like the plague, I have to say that our girls were perfect little angels at breakfast with their pleases and thank yous. They even managed to use their “12-inch voices” quite nicely and didn’t spill a bit of the gourmet continental breakfast. We were very proud. It was a good omen for the day, I think.
We started off right after breakfast on a hike up the huge hill to the Moorish Castle, a stonewalled fortress built high above the town to watch over the ocean for invaders threatening Lisbon. Unexpectedly, the hike to get there through a lush canopy of forest was spectacular, and we kept referring to it as “The Enchanted Forest.” The girls scampered up the steps and discovered snails, slugs, and all kinds of cool seeds and plants. The guidebook had advised against the walk because of the difficulty, but had an easy time of it with a 5-year old and a toddler (who we had to carry only half of the time) as well as a stroller slung over our back for later. I’m sure it would be harder in the heat of summer, but we were never once winded or tired enough to stop and rest, so it couldn’t be that bad. Another Rick Steve’s fail.
The Moorish Castle was yet another amazing and romantic castle to add to our Portugal memories. Since it was built for surveillance, the views are stunning. We followed the wall from start to finish, climbing every turret and took probably 5,000 pictures. Here are just a few from Zach’s phone (note how many tourists we had to share the place with):
Then another forested trail led us to the Pena Palace on an adjacent hill. This is the one you see in all the tourism brochures about Sintra. It looks like a pinterest birthday cake or a Disney theme park attraction. It was built for Prince Ferdinand of Portugal (cousin to Mad King Ludwig who built that Sleeping Beauty castle in Germany) and is almost goofy in its color scheme and mish mash of crazy architecture.
It was fun to explore but we were so spoiled that the handful of tourists seemed overwhelming. Diane crashed on Zach’s shoulder in the walk through the intricately furnished interior and managed to squeeze in a good nap in the stroller while we sat with Melina and ate amazing honey cookies and enjoyed the panoramic view. It is a tough life.
For the walk back to town we wound our way through forest trails and gardens, koi ponds and swan ponds (complete with black swans and cygnets), redwoods and eucalyptus. Enchanted, yes.
At some point we made the bad decision to follow the advice of someone who had told us the main road would make for a more stroller friendly walk. This was not so. Yes, it was easier on stroller wheels than cobblestones but it was also a mountain road with hairpin turns and no sidewalks. Zach and I were on high danger mode as we hurried for the 2 miles back to town, scurrying into ditches anytime we heard a car coming. I would much rather have carried the stroller and Diane through the Enchanted Forest, thank you very much!
So here’s the recap: seven hours, six miles, two castles, six swans, three ducks 50+ koi, two slugs, five snails, twelve cookies, two little girls, and zero whining. Clearly, that forest was Enchanted.
All that was left was dinner, gelato, bath time and more of that dang view. What a day.
I can’t believe our trip is almost over! I could stay here much longer. Even the girls were sad today when I mentioned we’d be going home in two days, although they do miss school and Game Night and Zellie. Oh well, just means I have to start planning our next trip soon…
Traveling Together 